tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-90383734683979006662024-03-19T04:40:52.029+01:00Effet de BordOborhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03524068172931231702noreply@blogger.comBlogger113125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9038373468397900666.post-42412385085772651652019-07-10T23:39:00.000+02:002019-07-10T23:47:55.210+02:00IMU 9250 + teensyThe idea is to use a modern and efficient 9Dofs IMU , together with a 32 bits CPU, more powerfull than a simple Arduino. Thi idea it to make an very powerfull and precise IMU for use n RC models or in rockets, and any robots.
I wanted also to use Quaternion and DMP for best possible capabilities of the chip.
Included on the same board of the MPU9250, there is also a BMP280, planned Oborhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03524068172931231702noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9038373468397900666.post-34802991952321731942019-05-14T19:24:00.003+02:002019-05-14T19:24:38.789+02:00Meteo station autonomeEt voila une station autonome construite a partir de https://www.instructables.com/id/Solar-Powered-WiFi-Weather-Station-V20/ . Le budget est très réduit, et il suffit d'avoir un reseau Wifi a portée raisonable. Plus de problemes d'autonomie :)
Prochaine étape, ajouter quelques capteurs supplementaires pour l'indice UV, une sonde thermo separée, un capteur d'humidité plus precis.
Oborhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03524068172931231702noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9038373468397900666.post-78655867954192385392018-03-11T12:44:00.001+01:002018-03-11T12:44:45.642+01:00Impression du FlexPur imprimer le flex:
1) l'extruder doit guide le file le plus possible pres du pignon d'entrainement
2) le filament doit etre droit, non abimé ou ayant deja servi
3) Imprimer a basse vitesse , 15mm/sec
4) Augmenter la vitesse de deplacement a 150-200ms pour reduire les fils
5) temperature du fil au max, pour le recreus a 230-235degres
6) pas de ventilation sur la piece
7) pas de retract
Oborhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03524068172931231702noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9038373468397900666.post-3681983253352696402017-09-22T20:22:00.000+02:002017-09-22T20:22:45.350+02:00Extruder tuningAfter many test and trials, and with the help of Bondtech, I finally found the problem that was causing me some headaches....
Problem was this:
Then after I fixed it, the result was this:
Muuuuch better :)
The reason: My printer is using rails HIWIN. They are very good , but they bring more friction than wheels or long bearings. So initially I got shift problems due to stepper Oborhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03524068172931231702noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9038373468397900666.post-35686169707323919552017-09-18T12:40:00.001+02:002017-09-18T12:40:19.420+02:00Cutting AluminumLast weekend, I tried to cut an aluminum sheet 2mm thickness. This was my first test with CNC to cut aluminum, as I used to cut carbon sheet and fiberglass mainly .
Result is good so far, next trial will be with a 4mm sheet. It needs to add some oil spraying during the milling.
My settings:
- drillMill: 1 tooth, M2x8
- cutting speed of the Kress: between 5 and 6 (RPM?)
- cut advance: 200mm/Oborhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03524068172931231702noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9038373468397900666.post-55439324938053793572017-09-10T23:07:00.001+02:002017-09-10T23:45:49.915+02:00Tests to improve print qualityThis week I made several progresses which improve the print quality, especially regarding retract and ghosting.
First, I installed and test the BondTech BMG extruder. It is a must, compact, very efficient , light, it has only adavantages. With it, and the mirror on bed, I could make my best first layer. I did first calibrate the width of the line. Once done, this line is very clean. RetractOborhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03524068172931231702noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9038373468397900666.post-236667372962780482017-08-23T20:21:00.002+02:002017-08-23T20:21:16.149+02:00Bed adherenceAfter years of using blue tape for bed adherence, I decided to try something else which do not make any mark below the print and which would work at least for PLA and PETG...
So, my friends of the Grenoble maker club, recommended me to try using mirror with head spray. They advertise it me so well that I decided to try.
As I had some old mirrors around, with good dimensions, I Oborhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03524068172931231702noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9038373468397900666.post-71954177181750198232017-08-14T12:31:00.003+02:002017-08-22T19:23:51.732+02:00Vibration, ripple, shadow, ghosting I have own several printers and the ripple effect always appears on most of my print.
How to get rid of it ?
The ripple or vibration or shadow effect looks like this:
Look on the surface where it is bright, do you see all this little waves ? They are vertically aligned. The surface should be perfectly flat and clean.
This test has been printed with my last printer, home made, see Oborhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03524068172931231702noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9038373468397900666.post-43886887832936382032017-08-09T18:34:00.003+02:002017-08-09T18:36:22.172+02:00Testing a very low cost powerfull chinese servo MG996R...Well, I am dispointed by this very low cost chinese servo MG996 , which is supposed to provide a 9kgcm torque...
https://goo.gl/eKHo4n
It is less powerfull than a Hitec 5485HB with 6.5kgcm....
In fact, both servos do not comply specifications announced, even the hitec one. Be warned.
But the Hitec is still better, with less power consumption.
See the videos of the various tests:
MG996&Oborhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03524068172931231702noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9038373468397900666.post-23706843765609406102017-08-06T16:02:00.000+02:002017-08-10T17:10:20.334+02:00GT2 pulleyAfter some search I found this way to make a pulley of various size , for a GT2 belt with a 2mm pitch.
First, you need to know the number of tooth, and the pitch of one tooth (2mm ). Then compute the diameter of a circle which will contain a polygon. The side of the polygon is the pitch, and the number of side of th epolygon is the number of tooth. This site is great to help that Oborhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03524068172931231702noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9038373468397900666.post-54100076687275164362017-07-31T18:30:00.001+02:002017-07-31T18:32:27.266+02:00TaranTitan: second versionI call it TaranTitan as it is started from ideas of the Tarantula printer and use the E3D Titan extruder.
The TitanAero is a direct extruder (no bowden) small and pretty light. It should bring only benefit to the quality of the print. Based on my previous design Tarantula++obo, I made the follwing changes:
retrofit from 32 bits electronic to 8 bits (mks-sbase) to Mks-base
retrofit Oborhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03524068172931231702noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9038373468397900666.post-87302577740046512862017-06-27T11:16:00.002+02:002017-06-29T15:47:05.976+02:00Mouse/trackball click on a keyboardSince several year, I started to feel some pain in my left arm and left shoulder, that's the side of my mouse. So I decided to do something , first I moved the mouse of the right side (I am left handy) , using the right arm instead of the left. But still , it was not enough, so I switched to a trackball. Trackball is much better as it avoid to move the whole arm, so only finger can operate. But Oborhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03524068172931231702noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9038373468397900666.post-32678218415395311612017-04-14T12:07:00.000+02:002017-04-14T12:07:23.357+02:00Anet A8Sompe pictures of the Anet A8, very good ratio quaility/prices, I paid it only 162€ transport included...
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Oborhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03524068172931231702noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9038373468397900666.post-47586088128124150222017-03-30T13:53:00.003+02:002017-03-30T13:55:46.110+02:00After winter Tarantula cleanupok, after one year of use and improvement, I decided to go for a big cleanup of my Tarantula. So here the result: new corner junction, new dual Z motors , new Z screw for setting, lcd on top...
Oborhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03524068172931231702noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9038373468397900666.post-23384001652530650192017-01-16T11:35:00.001+01:002017-01-17T22:07:20.465+01:00Electronic box completed
Now completed, with the touch screen display,
Oborhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03524068172931231702noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9038373468397900666.post-44787227926148329742017-01-10T09:37:00.002+01:002017-01-10T09:38:31.952+01:00Box for Printer3D electronic, work in progressIt is made of fiberglass 1.5mm (CNC cut) and PLA prints. Its dimensions allow to include a power sypply 350W (Amazon), a smoothieboard, and Raspberry for remote wontrol via wifi. Also a DC-DC converter has been added to power the Raspberry PI. It includes also a 40x40 fan for cooling, and a LCD display.
Almost complete, now waiting the LCD display...
Oborhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03524068172931231702noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9038373468397900666.post-84673915077539661342016-12-31T10:18:00.001+01:002016-12-31T10:18:55.384+01:00Tarantula++obo ou prusa i3 tarantula likeCourroie en Z supprimée et remplacée par 2 moteurs et tige filetée
Oborhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03524068172931231702noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9038373468397900666.post-13337379812962920722016-12-31T10:14:00.001+01:002016-12-31T10:14:53.711+01:00Tests d impression avec double extruderOborhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03524068172931231702noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9038373468397900666.post-18852726514309002972016-12-20T12:37:00.002+01:002016-12-22T09:24:47.226+01:00Tarantula++ oboSo here is my new printer, largely inspired from the basic principles of Tarantula and also Prusa.
In fact I redesigned/redraw almost all printed parts. Only I reused the Bed from Tarantula, it works so well :)
Main changes are :
40x20 frame everywhere
printed bracket corner very rigid and making alignment easier
Rails for each axes (MGN12 from Hiwin)
Motors 400 Steps/turn
Dual extruder, dual Oborhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03524068172931231702noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9038373468397900666.post-52721666196188450582016-12-17T10:07:00.001+01:002016-12-17T10:07:11.375+01:001er impression bicouleursPremier test d impression bicouleurs
Oborhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03524068172931231702noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9038373468397900666.post-26665433999543416132016-11-17T16:17:00.001+01:002016-12-17T10:01:37.861+01:00Tarantula++Bien avancé ma nouvelle imprimante 3d inspirée de la fameuse Tarantula. L objectif est double tête et haute précision (moteur 0.9degres/pas) électronique 32 bits . La courroie du Z à finalement été remplacée par de 2 moteurs et des tigestes filetées.
Oborhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03524068172931231702noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9038373468397900666.post-64749664319802092992016-06-03T23:14:00.001+02:002016-06-03T23:14:56.111+02:00Raspberry lcdTo configure this LCD on raspberry:
http://www.raspberrypiwiki.com/index.php/3.5_inch_TFT_LCD_Touch_Screen_SKU:363295
Start from a Raspbian jessie
Edit /boot/config.txt and add:
start_x=1
gpu_mem=128
core_freq=250
sdram_freq=400
over_voltage=0
dtparam=spi=on
dtoverlay=waveshare35a
dtoverlay=ads7846,cs=1,penirq=17,penirq_pull=2,speed=1000000,keep_vref_on=1,swapxy=1,pmax=255,xohms=60,xmin=200,Oborhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03524068172931231702noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9038373468397900666.post-77383067815597614402016-04-28T14:01:00.002+02:002016-04-28T14:01:28.725+02:00Continuing the search for good print
So, I ws not happy with this horizontal banding and very small waves on sides. so I went through a systematic and looooooong test processing, changing parameters and hardware configuration one by one. Now I have got more than 30 samples....
There is a good test on thingiverse for that : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:277394
Most samples are printer at &Oborhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03524068172931231702noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9038373468397900666.post-22801597417922455972016-04-01T17:21:00.000+02:002016-04-01T17:21:07.445+02:00Horizontal banding
I just spent lot of time trying to understand why I got horizontal banding on new parts with oboXL3D printer. Initially it looks like this:
:
To compare with another print coming from Kossel printer (the orange part)
After many tests and assumptions like bad threaded rod on Z or not aligned, accuracy of XY, bad filament, bad heater, etc... I finally found the solution, thanks to a Oborhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03524068172931231702noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9038373468397900666.post-27816683800038671922016-03-22T18:05:00.001+01:002016-03-22T18:05:05.839+01:00Progresses on OboXL3DThe two heat beds are working ok.
Both are driven by their own electronic switch and power supply.
The electronic switches are driven by the Rumba main board.
Only one temperature sensor is used as current Marlin firmware does not seems to allow more than one bed temperature sensor.
Below the bed, I have added some thin aluminium to enhance thermal isolation.
Bed comes to temperature prettyOborhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03524068172931231702noreply@blogger.com0